The holiday season is over, and we return to our discussion concerning wintering in the Algarve region of Portugal or on the Costa del Sol in Spain. In Part-four, Andy and Marielle, who have written about wintering in Spain for us before, share their take and their experiences related to spending part of their winter getaway in 2025 in Caroveiro in the Algarve region and in the town of Nerja on the Costa del Sol.
As you may have read in part two of this series, the one area of the Costa del Sol that is rugged like the Algarve region is the eastern area where Nerja is located. So, if you are thinking you might like to try out the Costa del Sol but really liked the rugged nature of the Algarve, Nerja may be the place for you.
Here we go! From this point on, when I am speaking, I will format it as a quote in italics. Everything else is Marielle and Andy’s contribution.
All photos by Andy and Marielle S. unless otherwise stated.
Marielle and Andy’s Experiences
In March and April of 2025, we decided to visit both the Algarve in Portugal, and the Costa del Sol in Spain…not only to give us a chance to check out a new destination, but to also view the 2 regions in an “(almost) apples to apples” comparison. Here are a few thoughts…
PORTUGAL – March 2025
I’m going to use a number of photo carousels here again. Please remember that to have each collection pop up into a much larger view, you simply click on the first image on the left-hand side and then sift your way through the pictures.
Getting There
We flew British Air Premium Economy (excellent, by the way) to Heathrow, then a short flight down to Lisbon. After our stay in Lisbon, we headed down to Carvoeiro in the western Algarve.
Europe has been a travel destination for us for many years, so we’ve learned a couple of things….
You’re flying overnight, so you’ll probably be crammed into a seat, eating a bad dinner around midnight, and arrive at the crack of dawn. We were tired of arriving exhausted and cranky, so decided to splurge. We embraced our advancing age and went Comfort Economy.
Transportation
We stayed for one night in Lisbon, then picked up our rental car and drove down to Carvoeiro for 2 weeks. It was an easy drive on an excellent highway. The car had a transponder for the tolls on the Suncoast Highway, so no worries about needing change for the toll booth. We used Google maps for directions, having purchased a European SIM card, per Greg’s recommendation.
Cellphone & Money Usage
It’s ridiculous to pay Canadian roaming prices when you can have a SIM card with lots of data for €20/month. And you’ll find full 5G connectivity across the entire Algarve and Costa del Sol.
Big debate over which credit card you use, how much cash you need, access to ATMs? For us, we use a WISE card for just about everything. Check out Greg’s many good articles on this subject.
Language Issues
We found that most of the locals in the Algarve towns we visited (with few exceptions) speak excellent mid-Atlantic English. Rarely do you reach for Google Translate in a conversation with a local. Signs are totally bilingual, and menus are always presented in multiple languages. Even the TV show we saw in our condo (on a rainy evening) was in English, with Portuguese subtitles.
Food-Groceries
We had easy access with our rental car to two large stores –The Intermarché, about a 10-min drive, has an excellent fresh seafood counter, good wine/beer/booze selection, and everything you’d expect in a large Canadian grocery store. The fresh oranges were delicious! Plus, in the parking lot under a canopy, there were combo washer/dryer coin-operated machines (about €10 a load). Came in handy when we couldn’t get the clothes dry in our condo as it was so rainy and damp. Dryers are uncommon in Europe; most places have a drying rack only.
About 15-min drive away was the huge Apolonia store, but we found it far more expensive than Intermarché. Surprisingly, the small Supermercado store on the main street in town was an easy walk and had all the basics, including fresh fruit, with comparable prices on wine. Handy if you ran out!
Near the beach you’ll find traditional touristy stores and kiosks selling typical souvenir stuff at typical prices. Along the streets of Carvoeiro are various clothing and other stores.
Food-Restaurants
There was a good selection, covering the full range in cost and cuisine.
In particular, we enjoyed the family-run “O Cantino”. We had tuna on a hot rock and the best grilled sea bass ever. We went back another night as we loved it so much. Also, check out “Bistro Algar Seco“ for a great poolside lunch overlooking the ocean, and “Don Carvoeiro” for great pizza with a view on the west side of town. We found the prices to be a little bit higher than in Spain. There were no chain restaurants, which we really liked. In Carvoeiro, there is a restaurant called Smilers, where a lot of Canadians hang out for trivia night.
Accommodation
We found multiple choices on all the various sites but selected a 2nd floor attractive 1-bedroom suite with a modern bathroom through VRBO. As a bonus, there was a roof deck, loungers, and a charcoal grill.
Located on a “hill” above town, it was an easy 10-min walk to the town centre… downhill, and then 161 steps BACK UP. The cost was €80 per night. We didn’t always walk to town; we could drive down, but there was limited parking.
The condo was nicely decorated and had a washer and dishwasher in the kitchen, with a little balcony off the kitchen overlooking the pool. As it was windy, rainy, and unusually cold during our stay, we did not have much time to enjoy the outdoor area. We also discovered that the mini split HVAC systems favour A/C in the summer rather than heat on chilly days.
Places to Visit & the Beaches
Though there is a local public bus system, we did not have occasion to use it as we had our rental car. There are numerous towns nearby, so we drove to visit Silves, with its ancient Moorish castle. It was very interesting to walk around and see the many sights, including the huge statue of Sancho the First of Portugal, a Crusader from 1169. We had a lovely lunch at a funky restaurant called Art’Aska. Super interesting and quirky décor.
On another day trip to Ferragudo, we had coffee and “Pastel de Natas” and walked around. Then we drove on to nearby Lagos, where we walked around the flat marina area, which is surrounded by new condo townhouse-type dwellings. Lagos is a lively tourist town, with patterned sidewalks similar to those found in Lisbon. There are lots of beaches, but we didn’t visit them as it was a cool day and the friends we were with had mobility issues.
We also drove to Portimão for a day. The beaches there were much larger and flatter than Carvoeiro and the town is far bigger. We were surprised to see Tsunami warning signs on the beach, which were long and flat, with a wide boardwalk along it. We ate lunch at a little beachside restaurant, very reasonably priced. The town seemed like a large and busy place, with many resort-type accommodations along the beach area.
Mobility/Walkability Issues
The coastline is ruggedly beautiful. Carvoeiro town is quite hilly, being built on the cliffs on either side of the beach. It might pose a challenge for those with mobility issues.
Carvoeiro – The Town
Caroveiro has a beach area accessible by foot from the centre of town or via the stairs down the cliffs at either side. Limited car parking is available at the entrance to the beach. There are lots of restaurants and shops near the beach.
Most days were windy and wet, unfortunately, so no ‘beach time’. Instead, we walked along the clifftop boardwalks that extend along the sides. We would have liked to hike along the clifftop trail to the west, but it had rained so much that the trail was closed as the red mud was very slippery and dangerous.
Locals told us it was very unusual to have this much rain and cold weather. We met many Canadians while out on walks or in restaurants, which was nice. There seemed to be more Canadians here than in Nerja, where we met many Brits.
The town offers a bustling nightlife in the beach area bars and restaurants. Though, we tended to go out for dinner only and then headed home at 9:30 or so.
SPAIN – March and April of 2024 and 2025
Nerja is a great little town on the Costa. We have stayed there twice before ourselves and would be happy to go back there for another visit. The rugged coastline is certainly appealing but does add a bit of a challenge walking around town. Especially for anybody with mobility issues.
I have written about Nerja on many occasions. Here is a quick link to one of those posts, if you are interested in finding out more about the town after you have read Andy and Marielle’s article.
I loved Andy and Marielle’s take on how they see the town. It brought back a lot of memories. For a small town, there is a lot going on there.
We have stayed in Nerja, a town about an hour to the east of Malaga, for two seasons now. We really enjoy it, finding it small enough to get around easily in, yet with enough restaurants and places to visit to keep us busy.
Language Issues
There is no language problem, as they are used to many European visitors and most places speak some amount of English. I have been working on my Spanish lessons, but the only place I have needed to use Spanish is at the grocery store, as the staff there usually don’t speak English.
Accommodation
Both years we have stayed in a “Greg recommended” apartment that directly overlooks the Mediterranean, which is very nice. Our two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment in the “Fuentes de Nerja” complex was €86 per night. The rates go up and down depending on the date (Easter is more expensive), so that’s an average of the nightly price for our stay. Greg has described the complex in his previous posts, so I won’t go into it here. The apartment is right beside the Torrecilla Beach, has six restaurants in the bottom of it, and is an easy walk to grocery stores and the downtown area near the Balcon de Europa.
There is also a large square beside us, with a Pétanque (Bocce/Boules) court. Occasionally, there are events held in the square, or a performer will appear. After you walk past the restaurants, you access the beach down a few steps, and then there is a boardwalk that extends to the west, past hotels and apartments. You can walk quite a distance to the west and there are Chiringuitos along the beach.
Around the central Balcón de Europa (Balcony of Europe), there are many restaurants, shops, and hotels. This area is where the nightlife happens .
Mobility/Walkability Issues
We walk many steps a day in hilly Nerja, and the streets slant up from the waterfront. We have seen people riding around on little mobility scooters, especially in the area around the Balcón. When our friend with mobility issues was visiting, we drove him to places in the town where he could walk on a flat-ish surface to the restaurants.
Calle Almirante Ferrándiz is lined with restaurants, but slants slightly upward. You can, however, park in the municipal Balcón parking structure or to the east in a large lot and walk through an alleyway beside the Pinocchio Restaurant and into the narrow street.
Beaches
There are several beaches in Nerja. As mentioned, we are beside the Playa de Torrecilla, while to the east are Playa Calahonda, Playa El Chorillo, and Playa Carabeo. The biggest beach, Playa Burriana, has a boardwalk lined with many restaurants (including AYO’s, which is a favourite of Rick Steeves), and beach sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. We enjoyed visiting the restaurants for lunch and met many (sunburned!) Brits who come for a quick holiday.
Transportation
We walked most places, but there is a good public bus system that can be used to travel between towns.
When we wanted to venture to another town to visit, we rented a car for the day. There was a very handy car rental just across the street, run by a lovely British ex-pat. Prices were very reasonable for rentals, so we had no problem getting a car when we needed one.
We found gas prices were ten cents per litre lower than in Portugal. A word of warning though, there are speed cameras everywhere, so don’t go over the limit. The Spanish drivers were very courteous, and traffic flowed smoothly. The cars stop frequently for white crosswalks, which are everywhere, so you must watch for them. Roundabouts are very common and keep traffic moving efficiently.
To get to the Malaga Airport, we used the airport service which was nearby. They were very helpful and it cost €75 for a ride in a nice car with our luggage and a cheerful driver.
Places to Visit
There are many towns inland from the Costa del Sol that are easy to get to. We visited nearby Frigiliana, a charming white hillside town, where we took the little train that goes around town and had a nice lunch before walking around.
Situated above and behind Nerja, Frigiliana is one of the many historic “white villages” (Pueblo Blanco) found in the hills of Andalusia. It is famous for its charming, steep, whitewashed streets, Moorish heritage, and beautiful views over the Costa del Sol.
We also visited Gibraltar, staying overnight in Linea. It was very interesting, and we toured around in a minivan with a driver, seeing the monkeys and the caves and the views, before returning to the square for fish and chips at a pub.
We’ve also driven to Córdoba where we saw the amazing Mezquita mosque and walked around the narrow streets and toured the sights. We stayed two nights there.
We really enjoy the fact that there are so many historic places to visit quite nearby, and love all the Spanish towns, enjoying great food and feeling entirely safe. We’ve stayed overnight in Ronda on several occasions. It sits on an amazing gorge.
We also drove to Soportujar, a quirky little mountain village with a ‘witch’ theme. Very interesting to walk around its cobbled streets to see all the odd witch-related things, including a house on legs.
Local Sights and Entertainment
Very close to Nerja, you can visit the famous Nerja Caves. There is a little red train that stops downtown which carries you out to the caves, passing the aqueduct on the way. The Caves are massive and fascinating. The experience is enhanced with dramatic lighting. Well worth the many steps down and back up.
There is an excellent restaurant for lunch near the entrance, Fundacion Cueva de Nerja, with a spectacular view south to the Mediterranean – and a hillside botanical garden to explore.
The area around the Balcón de Europa is always a happening place, with buskers, many restaurants, cafés, gelato stands, and tapas bars, and tons of people milling around.
There is also an English used bookstore nearby, where Andy gets many paperbacks. The church on the Balcon is where the Santa Semana Easter parades form, with costumes and huge flower bedecked holy statues of Christ and Mary. They are quite the events during Holy Week.
In the Parc Verano Azul along the river, there are many Pétanque (Bocce/Boules) courts. In the north section of town, there is a massive Recreation Centre (swimming pool, Padel courts, a football field, etc.).
There are also great hiking routes in the nearby hills, especially the Caminito del Rey, a guided hike along a wooden boardwalk.
There is an International Club, where many non-nationals visiting Nerja go to meet other travellers. The club offers games, special theme nights, darts, and outings to different places.
Food-Restaurants
There are (literally!) several hundred restaurants in Nerja, so we are still visiting new ones. We have enjoyed some of the restaurants in our complex, including “L’Antiqua Nonna Mia,” La Bottega,” and the handy “Café Mirasol.” We also enjoy “Pinocchio” where they have fun, strolling musicians dressed in medieval clothes, and the “Trattoria Italia,” on the busy restaurant row. There is also a nearby Morroccan restaurant with delicious lamb Tagine. Best ribs in town? … Rincon del Sabor on Calle Ruperto Andúez.
People often meet for drinks and chat at “the Ship” on Avenida del Mediterráneo. Reasonably priced with delicious snacks, cheap wine and beer, and friendly waiters.
There are restaurants with every type of cuisine, from tapas to Indian and everything in between. Happily, the town voted to not allow chain restaurants, so they are all privately owned and of varied cuisine.
Food-Groceries
There are multiple large grocery stores in Nerja, plus smaller corner grocery stores and fruit and veg stores, called Fruterias. You may experience language issues at grocery stores because some staff are not fluent in English. The produce in both countries was beautiful and fresh and very reasonably priced.
Most of the fruits and vegetables sold in the stores is grown year-round just up the road from Nerja near Almeria. That area produces much of the fruits and vegetables consumed in Europe during the winter.
A small baguette at the grocery store bakery was only 50 cents and was plenty for two of us. We also love the delicious European butter, much tastier than ours.
The stores are well stocked with everything you might need, plus a good selection of wines, beers and liquors. We found the wine to be extremely well priced, especially the plentiful Spanish wines (vino tinto “red”, blanco “white”, rosado “Rosé” … which we love). We often splurge on a nice French bottle for under €5. Red wines in particular, (Tempranillo and Rioja) are very reasonable.
An interesting aspect of grocery shopping on the Costa del Sol is most people have these small pull carts that they take with them to transport their purchases.
Cost of Living
Overall, we felt grocery prices in Spain were a bit lower than those in Portugal and found restaurants were cheaper as well. As mentioned, gas was ten cents a litre cheaper in Spain.
Summary
We enjoyed our stay in Portugal and the people were lovely and the rugged coast was beautiful, but overall, we prefer Spain. Perhaps because it is a bigger country it seems more well-developed. It is a large and historic country, and there are still many places for us to explore and visit. Spanish also seems to be a bit easier for us to learn, and Spanish is in use in so many South American and Caribbean places, plus Mexico.
And finally, a huge thank you to Marielle and Andy for once again sharing their thoughts about wintering on the Costa del Sol, and in this case, in the Algarve region as well.
We shall see you in Nerja for lunch later this winter! Safe travels!
