On September 24, 2023, I received an email that began in the following way…
“Hi Greg,
I have been reading your blog with great interest, and based on your recommendation, we have rented an apartment at the Fuentes de Nerja for March and April of 2024.”
This began an email exchange that lasted until Marielle and her husband Andy, and their friends were safely ensconced in their rental property in Nerja. Over the years, I have received email requests for information from readers about wintering in Spain and other matters, but this was the first time someone had contacted me to say that they were going to follow through on what I had to say about Snow-birding on the Costa del Sol.
In March 2024, on a two-day visit to Nerja to see other friends, we had the opportunity to meet Marielle and Andy and their friends Dan and Lou; we spent the better part of a day together sharing food and drinks. They are all lovely folks. We have since visited with Marielle and Andy at home.
It didn’t take me long to think that at the end of their two-month stay they would be the perfect individuals to write about how they experienced the Costa del Sol. As you have figured out, I am quite fond of wintering there, but that doesn’t mean others are going to enjoy it. I thought the insights provided by some new eyes would give all my readers a fresh take on the Costa. An impartial overview examining the Pros and the Cons… they took me literally. 🙂
I’m going to primarily use photo carousels here again. Please remember that to have each collection pop up into a much larger view, you simply click on the first image on the left-hand side and then sift your way through the pictures.
Andy and Marielle – Wintering on the Costa del Sol
And so, here we have it! Marielle and Andy’s take on wintering on the Costa del Sol. I will probably interject occasionally to share some related thoughts, but for the most part, we will just roll with their observations and photos. When I share my reflections, I will do so in this “quote” format. I have added in a couple of my own photos as well just to flesh out some of the things they are describing.
The Big Winter Getaway Decision
Retirement. Perfect.
Florida? Hmm. Been there. Bought there. Sold there.
Mexico? Boring.
And then the chance discovery of Yikes! I’m Retired. What Now? and Spain’s Costa del Sol? Why not….
Within a few days, we had an excellent overview of ‘Everything Nerja”, and a plan was in the works for March/April 2024.
Nerja is the town which is considered to be the eastern most municipality of the Costa del Sol, sitting about 50 km east of Málaga. The Balcón de Europa, a promontory reaching out into the Mediterranean, is the heart and centre of the old town.”
The Good … i.e. the Pros
The level of detail on Greg’s blog is remarkable. Up-to-date contact info, pricing, best shopping areas, cool spots to visit, ‘tourist-intensive sites’ to avoid, low-fee ATMs, travel-friendly credit/debit cards, etc. (We’re using Wise now with great savings on exchange). And bonus points to Greg for responding promptly to our emailed questions. Note that there is a ‘buy me a beer fee’ attached to said inquiries…in person, at one of Nerja’s finest terraces.
I do have to interject at this point and say I was not looking for an endorsement or a validation of what I have been writing about, but I do appreciate the kind words… and the beer. As they asked questions, it dawned on me that it might be a good idea to provide a bit of guidance on the drive from the airport up to Nerja having done the trip many, many times before myself… there are a few quirks. The following are the images I sent them to help out.
Outings
Greg’s assessment of the Costa del Sol is bang on accurate. The area is a very popular destination for short and long stays, and the side trips we took to Malaga, Marbella, and Puerto Banus strongly support this notion. Tour buses, extreme yachts, Aston Martins, Jags, Mercedes, ‘beautiful people’ (except the Speedo-clad Euro-Dudes….shudder) all enjoying the public thoroughfares. We were there in the off-season (March and April) – we can only imagine July and August.
Though it’s an old city, Nerja is easy to get around in….and even easier to rent a small car and head out for overnights. Easy trek to Ronda (in the White Hills, and yes, you’ll be humming the tune), Granada, Cordoba… and if you have a couple of days, travel to Gibraltar (stay in La Linea). Quite the rock.
One of the aspects of coming to the Costa that we love, or in the broader sense all of Andalusia, is the amazing number of incredible Spanish towns and cities that we can visit within easy travel distance.
Restaurants and Grocery Shopping
Nerja, however, has not lost its old school charm. Restaurants are family owned and operated with great pride in both taste and service. There is no McD’s here (thankfully).
Whether it’s mid-morning café con leche (always with a pastry), ‘anytime’ lunch at a patio, late afternoon drink(s) and tapas on the plaza, or the evening dining experience, there is a relaxed (yet professional) atmosphere. In our 2 months there in 2024, we went to over 45 different spots. No two were the same, and the variety was incredible. Cost for a nice dinner? About 50 euros. With good wine. We’re returning in 2025 and will frequent the more than 150 restaurants we have yet to try.
There are definitely a number of great restaurants in Nerja. Several sit overlooking the Mediterranean making for a nice lunch with a wonderful view. I have thrown one of our favourite “rooms with a view” into Marielle and Andy’s collection of restaurant photos.
From our Feuntes de Nerja apartment (recommended of course by Greg), we were no more than a 15-minute stroll to the restaurants, Mercadona and Carrefour grocery markets. Fresh produce (from local farms) every day. Seafood as well. Fresh baked goods. The daily sojourn to the market is a most pleasant change from our rushed North American ‘buy in bulk’ style. And a decent bottle of rioja (red wine) blanca or rose? 2 to 5 euros a bottle. Always plenty of wines on sale.
Accommodation
The walk out balcony of our top floor apartment was about a 9-iron shot to the Mediterranean. About a 7 iron for Greg.
Are they baiting me here? Should I respond to this trash talk about my golf game? I probably would if it weren’t true. 🙂
And the Fuentes complex has a pool. In March, it’s not unlike the traditional “May 24” swim; by mid-April, it’s perfect. A 5 min walk to Playa la Torrecilla for a swim in the Med.
Frigiliana – Pueblo Blanco (White Town)
Frigiliana, sitting up in the hills behind Nerja, is one of several whitewashed towns and villages (Pueblo Blancos) that dot the hills along the Costa del Sol and other nearby areas. They all ooze charm, but Frigiliana is particularly delightful.
We visited the nearby village of Frigiliana for a quick day trip. We rode around on the little trolley train with a guide telling us about the sights. Unfortunately, he was hard to understand when speaking Spanish or English as it all sounded exactly the same to us, but a nice ride around nevertheless.
The views were lovely and the village, although touristy, was quite charming. Lunch at one of the terraced restaurants was de-delicious and the rosé was cold. The donkey delivering the groceries on the very steep cobbled hill was interesting. All in all, a pleasant day trip.
The Bad … i.e. the Cons
Yes. There are tourists. Especially at Easter, when the streets are full, the parades are spectacular, and you might wait a bit to get a seat in a restaurant. The “If this is the Balcon de Europa then we’re in Nerja” bus tourists arrive mid morning but are usually fed and on their way by late afternoon.
Holy Week was early last year, and Marielle, Andy and we were lucky enough to be in Spain when it happened. As you will see, they managed to shoot some interesting photos from a few different church processions. They also took some photos of members of the local Muslim community participating in a shared “Iftar” near the end of Ramadan. It was held in the square just outside their housing complex. Unfortunately, for us, we didn’t really get to see any church processions because we had moved on from the Costa del Sol to Toledo, and everything got rained out.
Unlike Greg’s adventurous spirit, we choose to lock down accommodations and flights to avoid shuffling between accommodations.
“Sissies! 🙂 See, I can trash talk too. LOL!”
Sadly, as Yikes! I’m Retired…What Now? grows in popularity, more people will discover our hidden gem across the pond.
I don’t think you need to worry about how many of my readers in Canada will show up on the Costa del Sol next winter. I’m pretty sure all Canadian snowbirds are going to be looking for alternative non-US destinations in 2025 and 2026. So don’t blame me. 🙂
There is No … Ugly 🙂
Thank you very much for doing this, guys. I’m sure your efforts are going to be well received by my readers.
YIKES BONUS! – I suppose this is related to Marielle and Andy’s report, but really it wouldn’t be necessary to report on it here just because of that. I want to tell you about a hotel we have stayed in when we have gone to Nerja to visit friends. Part of the appeal will become clear to you when you look at the pictures. 🙂
The hotel is called the Hotel Plaza Cavana. It sits very close to the Balcón de Europa, so centrally located. This makes everything you would like to see and do in Nerja walkable.
I would assume the most popular hotel in town is the Hotel Balcón de Europa which sits right beside the Balcón and has views onto the Mediterranean. But, of course, you pay for that. Hotel Plaza Cavana appears to be a much more economical choice. I wouldn’t call this an official endorsement, but I do think you should know about this little, less obvious hotel.
